CAA - Flintknapping Workshop with Tim Dillard

Parallel Flaking Techniques

by Jim Winn (February 2002)

Over the years, I have developed some ideas or beliefs on what seems to work when it comes to parallel pressure flaking. I may be wrong in my thinking, and invite other opinions or suggestions or what works from other folks. I am sure lots of folks may disagree with my ideas, but I welcome hearing from them so that we can all learn and improve our skills. Hopefully, maybe some of the following may be of use to others, or at least provide something to think about. Here they are:

1) Parallel flaking can be done straight in or obliquely. Either will work, but oblique flaking is more efficient for several reasons. First, the flake will travel further in an oblique direction than straight in. Why? Because the convexity is less when traveling at an angle across the face than straight in. In other words, it is flatter. All other things being equal, flakes travel further as the face becomes flatter (unless it becomes concave, or course). There is a negative side to this: Flake terminations are more likely to terminate in a step or hinge as the face becomes flatter, but measures can be taken to prevent this

2) Flakes will travel further and are more likely to have a feather termination when absolutely nothing is touching the flake as it is being removed. This is why I use a slotted hand pad, so that the flake area to be removed is resting over the slot. After each flake removal the biface needs to be moved so that the next flake is resting over the slot. If this is not done the flake will often terminate in a small fingernail hinge at the point where it meets the pad.

3) The biface is less likely to break during heavy pressure flaking when the flakes travel obliquely across the face instead of straight in. Why? There is more mass below the flake diagonally across the flake then straight in. Also, the flake is less likely to overshoot the opposite margin because the distance is greater. There is one time when this does not apply, and that is when removing flakes close to the tip when the flakes are traveling back toward the tip. In this case the flakes travel a shorter distance and great care must be taken not to overshoot and break the tip off. I have found that placing the tip of the biface on the pad (not over the slot) works well to prevent tip breakage until several flakes have been removed. Why? 2 reasons. One is that the tip is now supported and less likely to recoil and snap. The second is that the pad is touching the flake and prevents it from traveling as far. It may terminate in a fingernail hinge, but this can be removed when working the other edge, from the tip to the base.

4) Either an Ishi stick or a simple hand flaker can be used to do oblique parallel pressure flaking. But only an Ishi stick can remove massive long pressure flakes. Why? Because tremendous pressure can be applied with the Ishi stick, using not only the arm and leg muscles, but the chest, shoulders and back also. (In fact the whole body can be used with the Ishi stick in the traditional manner between the legs). The closer to the crotch, the more power that can be developed, and in addition the more stable everything is. I find the hand flaker more suitable on the smaller points where great pressure is not required and I am sometimes able to get more accuracy with it. Also, the hand flaker can be twisted at the moment of flake release to increase the travel of the flake. But the Ishi stick is a must on the big knife blades (unless your doing percussion of course).

5) Beginning knappers sometimes have trouble getting the flakes to travel as far as desired. They place all their strength into it and still the flake peters out short. Why? Sometimes it is a matter of strength, but more often I believe the cause is insufficient support of the biface, such that it rotates in the hand. The knapper is pressing with all his/her strength with the pressure flaker while the hand supporting the biface allows the biface to rotate slightly. The pressure now is directed outward instead of straight in, it travels a short distance but not to the middle of the point and the result is a thicker biface. The cure is to concentrate on supporting the hand holding the biface such that it remains absolutely fixed while the pressure flaker is applying pressure. The pressure flaker must apply force nearly straight in for a long flake and not be allowed to tilt outward. Again, supporting the hand close to the crotch and on the inside of the leg provides great support. If the knapper is straining and allows the hand to leave the inside of the leg the hand supporting the biface has to rely on the arm muscles alone for support and arm muscles are simply not strong enough to provide fixed support (unless you have 20” biceps!). Basically, the flake will obey the rules of physics and travel where ever the force is directed.

6) Parallel flaking is more efficient than random flaking (both on percussion and pressure). I am not saying is it right or wrong, just more efficient. Ancient knappers used both methods and of course random flaking is the only appropriate method when duplicating certain point styles. Random flaking must of course be used in the early stages of biface reduction to remove unwanted mass which is randomly located. However, by stage 3 or so, ridges can become established and oriented so that successive flakes can follow the ridge left by the remaining flake.

7) When doing parallel pressure flaking it is not necessary to travel all the way from tip to base or visa versa until the final set of pressure flakes is to be removed. Just continue the flaking sequence where mass needs to be removed. If you hit a low spot, skip past it and start where the next mass needs to be removed. Otherwise the point will be bent or twisted when viewed sideways. This was a problem I had in the early days when I would keep going from tip to base and then wonder why the point was not flat! Even on the final set of flakes it is not necessary to travel continuously if there is a low spot and often skipping over it will not even be noticeable (unless you are doing FOG, in which case there wont by any low spots anyway). Also, when doing a sequence of flakes, try to adjust the length and thickness of each flake to the amount of mass needing to be removed.

8) Longer flakes are wider flakes. Guess this is obvious! But the spacing needs to be increased between flake removals to prevent the flake from diving into the previous flake scar. I still make this mistake when I don’t take the time to inspect each flake removal and adjust the next accordingly.

OK, that is all for now. Lets hear from others. Give me some hell! Really, I know there are probably lots of ways to do things better that I have not thought of, and I think that is what this forum is all about, sharing and learning from one another to improve our skills. Perhaps a folder can be created on pressure flaking tips, another on percussion flaking, fluting, etc.